Now on the opposite side of Mont Blanc, the climb up to the Col Checrouit was mostly secondary road, but the views of the Glacier du Mirage made up for that. Meandering up winding 4×4 tracks that doubled up as ski.piste in the winter, we were soon in the peaks high above Courmayeur. A huge descent dropped us swiftly into the Italian ski resort, non technical, but steep and super dusty! Sunshine glinting off the haze of dust kicked up by our wheels.

A small shop just up from the bus station, en route, provided plenty of gluten free food for Alan with outside seating for a relaxed lunch break. Pricey of course though.

8km of pavement pounding up out of Courmayeur was one of the mtb detours off the official TMB route, avoiding a long hike-a-bike section. Over the top and we entered into a deep sided valley following the river trail. If you have time, the crystal clear waters are perfect for a quick dip! A refuge at the valley’s end provided an ideal refuel and coffee stop before the long climb out up and over Col Ferret, along the trail we could see disappearing up the mountainside.

Coffee & cake – image by Scott Cornish

Switchback fire road eased us in, up to the refuge Elena, before unrideable hiking path took over, pitching up steeply at times! Grand views of the length of the valley and cascading glaciers eased wincing calves.

Despite the windchill, we took our time at the col taking in the 360° views. With the sun on our backs, we flew down lingering snow fields and flowing mountain singletrack, dropping into Switzerland towards Champex, our next destination. Not before stomach’s demanded food though! A well timed refuge just up from the valley floor provided dinner, but at a hefty expense!

Tree lined valley single track followed the flow of the river, the kind of trail you wanted to just keep riding all day long. Wanting to pitch up before darkness fell, we found a quiet spot on the climb out of the valley. The MSR Reflex tent is quick and easy to set up and pretty roomy for a single person tent.

The sunrise ride up through tree lined singletrack was stunning. We rode in silence just the sounds of effort, taking in nature’s show, riding in and out of the sunbeams streaming through the trees.

Another good food store find in Champex, just before the lake, for Alan. Stomachs full with a 2nd breakfast, we bimbled along more river side trail, spinning out the legs in anticipation of the penultimate climb. Well known for its steep slopes bringing UTMB competitors to their knees, we understood why as it became gradually steeper and looser under tyre, forcing defeat and pushing, much to the intrigue of hikers as we hustled past them with our loaded bikes.

Over numerous river crossings and up tight switchbacks, we quickly gained height on the trail’s steep slopes. The final 2km was at least rideable along the ridge edge, and what a view! Now above the treeline, the Valais valley stretched out far infront of us. The ridge top refuge had to be an obligatory stop for coffee and cafe! An ancient summer refuge with the original kitchen, still churning out homemade treats and tasty coffee. Worth a ride out from Chamonix as a day trip.

Trying not to indulge too much in the delicious cake as there was a steep 2km climb to the top of the descent and what a descent. Cracking singletrack, a real mix of flow, technical and steep, all whilst avoiding hikers! Amazing! From the col de Forclaz, it was still downwards, smooth tarmac connecting us swiftly to the final climb up past the hillside hamlet of Les Jeurs. Non technical ski piste tracks brought us to the col de Possettes and far reaching views of the Chamonix valley 1000m below. From here it was all downhill!

Rocky, contoured ski piste dropped us into le Tour and the start of the tree lined singletrack of Petit Balcon Nord trail, flowing all the way into the edge of town.