Hiking and Culture – pedalnorth

Our Favourite Coffee Stops – Lumos Cafe in Sibiu

Pedalnorth Website — Wed, 30 Aug 2023 21:06:11 +0000

Lumos Coffee & Brunch

Great Cafe's

Favourite Coffee Stops: Lumos, Sibiu

by Robert Thorpe

I like coffee, I really do.I owe it so much over the years. At work in a previous career, it sustained me at times of great weariness, and when I’m writing it comforts me when I need a break from the mental torment of fitting words together on a page, so that they make sense. These days, for health reasons, I drink decaf and take oat milk. It still tastes sublime though, and despite knowing that I shouldn’t drink too much, it’s a comforter I can’t give up.

Along with great coffee, I like food. It’s not simply a case of putting necessary energy and building blocks into my aging body as I exercise. I, like anyone who admits it, loves the taste of great food, and I love combining a coffee – or a hot chocolate – with a tasty meal in a chilled out cafe. As cyclists too, it’s a rite of passage to be shown the best cafe stops. My old friend – God bless his soul – Ben Ralston, wouldn’t let me eat cake until we’d finished a hard ride; and, Fiona, another close friend and cycling partner, says ‘no climbing no cake!’ And so you see, I know that when I’ve earned a coffee stop, that I have to make the most of it. Due to this, and being a writer who simply likes to camp out and create words while watching the world go by, from the comfort of a great coffee shop, I’ve compiled an almost encylopediac list of the very best places – and, it’s time to share a few favourites.

Lumos Coffee & Brunch, Sibiu

Okay then, here’s a great place to start with, for many reasons; not least of which is that it sits in the perfect place in probably my favourite small city in the world – the simply magical city of Sibiu, in Transylvania, Romania. This medeival city, also known by it’s historical Germanic name of Hermannstadt, is a World Heritage Site, nestled beneath the sublime mountains of Romania, and with so much history that you’ll never exhaust of visiting.

Tucked quietly away, a few footsteps from Piata Mare (the main square), and close to the quieter and super cool Piata Huet, with it’s neat benches and small trees to shade under, Lumos Coffee is a easy to find and easy to fall in love with. The neo-classical architecture outside is painted in soft colours, and invites you into a large and modern interior, with well-spaced tables and comfortable seating. Outside of the cafe, there’s also ample seating, to take in the warm eastern European sun, and the simply breathtaking sunset that falls across the nearby mountains each day.

When I visit Sibiu, I have a favourite table in Lumos, allowing me to rest on soft leather seating, watch the world go by through the large windows and type away, as I empty my writers mind of a myriad of ideas and words, that always seem to make more sense when I’m here in my favourite city on earth.

Great Teams Create Amazing Atmosphere

In a previous life and career, I once had the surprisingly important title of being a Critical Incident Commander’ – I know, very grand indeed… not. I was basically, like colleagues, the guy whose phone rang when there was a real issue happening. What I learned from working in such a stress-filled environment is that good teams are led by good people, and that the result is a simply amazing atmosphere. Lumos has this is spades, and is a calm oasis of coolness – even on a hot day.

The cafe is led by a person that I’d like to acknowledge as a friend – Mihai. He’s one of the kindest, most warm-hearted and quietly caring people that you can ever meet. On my last trip to Sibiu, when a particular issue was troubling me, and I’d retreated to the comfort of my favourite place, he noticed my demeanour and shared time and coffee with me. Time is the most precious gift that we can give to anyone – and Mihai gives his time to everyone. He is the most generous of souls, and it’s reflected in his warm, polite and talented colleagues, such as Miriam, a who are seemingly so chilled and happy at work and always willing to share intelligent conversation with a confusing writer, who must at times seem a nuisance to others.

Always Part of the Plan

When I visit Sibiu, and whatever I’m doing, and whoever I’m with, Lumos is always central to plans. I use it as a base when in town for the annual Sibiu Cycle Tour (UCI 4 day race), and have met global cycling friends here, like my close friend Cherie Pridham, sharing lunch as I introduced her to my favourite cafe in Europe. This summer, when Nadezhda and Larisa were doing a shoot for the DS Pro cycling brand, we used Lumos as a backdrop for some images and as our chosen refreshment place during breaks. It always fits the bill, because Lumos, Mihai and the team care so much to make sure that it does so for everyone.

There’s a friendly buzz about the cafe, and the food is superb, cooked fresh all the time by their amazing chefs,and it reflects the global visitors that flock to Sibiu, with choices tomatch all tastes and needs, including Vegans and Celiacs. My own favourite meal here is their Roma Toast, with sourdough bread, sun dried tomatoes, gouda, and red onion chutney. I could live on this – finishing off of course with Cake – a Lumos dessert is something to behold.

If Heinekin made Cafe’s…

I’ve visited some truly appalling cafes in my time. Ordering coffee on a few occasions, I’ve genuinely felt like being poisoned, and I’ve had to make an excuse to leave rapidly. I once visited a then newly opened cycling cafe I dare not name, and ordered cappuccino which tasted so bad that if served in Italy, they’d be arrested and locked up! I travel to Italy as often as finances, family life and time allow, and I love coffee… and food. I must be of Italian heritage from Roman times. After all, their empire did stretch to Hadrians Wall, and maybe I’m the descedant of a Roman legionaire who wooed a northern lady!

Back to coffee and great coffee stops then…Of course I’m not Roman – I’m Romanian I wish!

There is nothing finer in any urban area, anywhere in the world, than having a special place to retreat to. I love leaving my hotel (usually the Art Hotel in Sibiu), walking around the corner and setting up my ipad for a morning of writing at Lumos, then relaxing over brunch. It’s the best place to meet friends, be they locals or travellers like me, here to make the most of one of the most magical cities in Europe or elsewhere – Sibiu. Yes, I love Sibiu with a deep and abiding love, and I love its people, its history and culture, its cycling – and I love Lumos Cafe.

If Heineken made a cafe – they’d model it on Lumos, with the best people, the best food and the best coffee, and the coolest vibe.

Put Sibiu on Your Bucket List

Forgive my blasphemy, but please Mihai – for the love of God, open a Lumos here in Harrogate too. Yorkshire needs you and I miss watching the world go by from your calm oasis, and I love replenishing my body and soul after a hard ride in the hills of Transylvania, and walking the cobbled streets, with the medeival rooftops looking down on me. If I could, I’d move to Sibiu and buy an apartment looking over the old town, and close by to Piata Huet. I love the people of Sibiu, some of whom I look upon as family. Sibiu is aplace that captures your heart, due to the place, the history and most importantly, the people.

As far of Coffee shops and cafes go, Lumos sets the bar very high indeed, as we start to share our own list of favourite cafes for cyclists with you. I don’t know if it can be matched… but my colleagues and I here at Pedalnorth, will keep exploring and try to find a few more cycling stops to recommend for you. While we do, why don’t you book your own trip to Sibiu, at any time of the year: for cycling, hiking, the international arts festival in summer, or the magical Christmas Fair. Bring your bike and ride the sublime mountains that stand sentinel over Sibiu, and then relax in this quite wonderful cafe and coffee shop!

Lumos Coffee & Brunch at Facebook

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Touring Lake Balaton Part 3

Pedalnorth Website — Fri, 15 Mar 2019 16:24:10 +0000

Touring Lake Balaton – Part Three

Sunshine, Cycling & Culture

Day 6 Larisa and Robert

So it is our last day cycling, and I was both excited and sad at the same time. We had all become great friends during our tour, led by Tamas, with Peter and Laszlo keeping us supplied with water, coke and lots and lots of humour. Having a small group had met that we had all bonded and got to know each other, and everybody was slightly sad to be leaving.

The ride today was set to be about 80km, and included some hills for us to climb along the way. There were of course lots of descents too, which allowed us to have some fun, as we raced each other in windless sunshine, simply speeding down like real racers, on the smooth asphalt. Everywhere there were cycle paths too, with cyclists to be seen all day long, on these traffic free cycle highways.

Smiles, Miles & Lemonade

After a short time cycling, Tamas stopped our peloton for lemonade by the roadside, with deck chairs for us to relax in the sun. Then we made several short interviews, with each of us interviewed by Laszlo, talking about how we had found the week and our cycling tour in Hungary. For me, and for Robert, it had been a very special experience that will live with both of us. Hungary now has a place in my heart, and my week had been wonderful.

After our refreshments break, we cycled on, to an old volcano and quarry, with superb views over the open landscape. However, in order to enjoy the view, we had to first climb up the steep slopes. Lunch was a treat of local fish from the Lake, with chips and beer, and everyone thought I needed more too eat … or just wanted to make a funny photograph of a hungry cyclist … in Hungary! Then it was time take to the roads again, finishing off our tan lines and taking the last few photographs of the tour.

Leaving is so Much Sorrow

The ride finished at the historic town of Veszprém, where after dinner we walked together and saw the medieval sights, including the fortified walls where I sat dangling my legs and took in the lights of the town below. While I was walking, I was thinking about the fun I’d had and wanting to visit again, being totally chilled and relaxed – not least from the great company. It also felt nice to all walk together and not to have to concentrate on cycling, instead just enjoying the historic Gothic architecture.

Flying out of Budapest the next day was sad, leaving behind happy memories and new friends. I’d had an amazing week, cycling around this beautiful country and meeting the people who live and work and cycle around Lake Balaton. Cristoff left first, having a flight to get to the Czech Republic, and the rest of us relaxed and chilled in Budapest in the sun. Despite being sad at leaving, I was however sure that we would all see each other again, in this amazing country where cycling is becoming a passion.

Before flying, Robert and I sat together in the garden at Tamas’s house, doing some necessary writing, as we remembered that this was working trip too! It was lovely just sitting and chatty and talking and sharing the adventures, and sharing our thoughts on Hungary too.

The cycling here is well developed, with lots of bike lanes used extensively by the locals as well as the tourists. It really is a pleasure to cycle in Hungary, with the high sun and the beautiful historic landscapes and the history … and of course the spas, which were very welcome after cycling each day . After such a memorable trip, all that’s left is to raise a glass to new friends!

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Touring Lake Balaton Part 2

Pedalnorth Website — Fri, 15 Mar 2019 15:22:46 +0000

Touring Lake Balaton – Part Two

Discovering Culture

Day 4 Larisa & Robert

Setting off from our hotel with a larger peloton, today was to be a day of twisting roads, climbing and history, as we took a long flat road towards the rising countryside, passing a series of wildfowl protected lakes for birds, where it was time to do a little work, as Erika and Laszlo took photos and video for the tourist board, and we did our best to look like competent cyclists.

For part of the 70km ride, Tamas took a rural gravel path, introducing a new experience for me on a road bike, and having new Pirelli tyres to test on my bike, they handled the mixed terrain well, giving good grip and rolling smoothly with no flats. It was certainly fun, as I ride both road and mountain bike … but not at the same time usually!

After the morning short ride and adventures, we arrived at the spa resort of Heviz, where coffee and cake was enjoyed. Heviz is a match for anywhere around the world, and so the only difficulty was in choosing which of the chocolate and creamy delights to eat first – after all, as cyclists, we are bound to burn off the calories… aren’t we? Following this worthwhile stop, we set off on the bikes again, to a famous medieval castle on a high point at Sümeg, near the border of Hungary. The roads were winding and descending more steeply as we approached the area, and I was able to speed along and open up my bike on the sweeping descents, testing the tyres too.

Once at the castle and admiring the history and views, we took time to explore, as Tamas told us of the history, and we made friends with the donkeys in the courtyard. The views from the top of the castle were spectacular, and in little corners of the castle, groups were taking part in cultural talks and activities, and the sun was baking down. It was a truly splendid moment and one to just relax and take in the culture of this place.

Then it was back to Heviz and our 4 star hotel, where we would be staying for 2 nights, and having dinner tonight with a senior minister from the Hungarian government, responsible for developing cycling tourism in the area. It seemed strange to be sharing dinner with a high ranking politician, talking about cycling, but Hungary are really doing an amazing amount of work to promote their country as a cycling destination – which it definitely is.

Day 5 Larisa & Robert

It’s day 5 of our cycling tour, and we’re in Heviz, an amazing spa resort with thermal pools to match any around the world. Tamas has arranged to start the day with a swim in the pools, and so here we are, in water that is 35 degrees, and beautiful sun shining down on us. The team are busy, with Erika our photographer, taking images and Lazslo our videographer, drone flying above the pools, creating superb film footage.

With more riding planned for later in the day, I’m sitting under a shaded tree on a sun lounger, catching up on writing, and making sure that you, our readers get a taste for what Hungary has to offer as a bikecation location. Dinner last night was wonderful, and the hotel really is first class all the way, making sure that when off the bike we get to relax and totally chill out. Larisa is sunbathing nearby, and enjoying the spa waters. I’ve only cycled one day so far, and it’s only right then that I do a share of the editorial writing work. After all, the sun is in the 30s, Larisa has cycled more than me and a girl needs a tan more than just where her bib shorts and jersey have been worn

Cake is Crucial

On our way back to the hotel, we stop for more superb Heviz cake, and then it’s time to change and cycle in the afternoon with the Secretary of State – wow! Our peloton speeds along in the sun and heat to a famous Gingerbread House, where a local lady greets the politician with water drawn from a well in the garden, before we all sample the gingerbread, which is beautifully ornate and decorated, as well as full of deliciousness.

We then follow a series of roads and cycling lanes, along the shores of Lake Balaton and the surrounding villages, before we are climbing to a hilltop with a spectacular panoramic view of the lake and surrounding hills and greenery. Both Larisa and I are feeling very special to be part of this amazing tour, riding in such company, in such a beautiful place, and wearing our custom G4 #helloHungary kit of course!

Our final etape of the day takes the cycle lanes close to the shoreline, and back to Heviz, with a short stop at a shoreline deck for ice creams and more images. Arriving at our hotel with 80km covered, we shower and change quickly, before heading to a nearby winery and restaurant for some great local food and wines. The wine testing is very welcome, and both Larisa and I are unable to remember how many toasts we celebrate with clinking glasses.

It’s a relaxed scene, as our group of weary cyclists walk downhill and back to the hotel and bed – but everyone is excited about the final days cycling tomorrow.

Larisa & Robert

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Touring Lake Balaton Part 1

Pedalnorth Website — Fri, 15 Mar 2019 10:38:07 +0000

Touring Lake Balaton – Part One

Cycle Touring in Hungary

It’s 40 years since Freddie Mercury and Queen sang ‘I want to ride my bicycle’ and these lyrics are now coming alive, as people all over the world are taking to two wheels in the new cycling revolution. It’s not just about cycle racing too, with families, commuters, and leisure cyclists joining in the new lifecycle, and through this helping to increase cycling tourism around the globe.

Larisa and I were invited by @ridehard.hu to join them on a cycling tour around the region of Lake Balaton in Hungary, as guests of Hungarian Tourism, to see how cycling is developing for tourists in one of the most historic of European nations, where summer temperatures can reach into the mid and high 30s degrees Celsius. Petra, the G4 chief executive is of course, a former Hungarian National triathlete, and so invited Larisa and Robert from the G4 Ambassador and Communications team onto the tour.

Time then to see how Larisa and Robert got on… and, as Robert was holidaying in the South of France until the 14th of August, global ambassador Larisa was the first to arrive.

Day 1 Larisa

Arriving at the airport, the first thing I saw was a large sign saying #helloHungary. Speaking to Tamas, this is a drive by Hungary to promote tourism, of which cycling is a key part. It was a sign I was to see several times along the way, showing the work that the Hungarian Government is putting into promoting their country as a sports holiday location. The tour we were invited on was the 3rd of a series and we were to cycle in stages around Lake Balaton. I was excited, as Hungary is an amazing country, and cycling around its countryside while staying in great hotels sounded amazing.

Lake Balaton is a significant feature in the landscape here. It has an area of 231 square miles (598 square km) and extends for 48 miles (77 km) along the southern foothills of the Bakony Mountains of Hungary. At it widest point, Lake Balaton measures about 9 miles (14 km) across. Its maximum depth is 37 feet (11 metres). It’s popular for all water sports, and has long cycling paths all around the area.

Having arrived, it was an area with superb views and panoramas that all cyclists could enjoy and discover the vibrant colours of the landscape and varied scenes of Hungary and its rich history. The Tour was planned for a week, and was designed to discover the breath-taking scenery and to enjoy the relaxing spas of Hungary from the saddle! Also on the itinerary was a trip later in the week to a winery, to taste the best local wines of the region.

The ride for day one was a 55km spin along the lake shore, around the Balatonfured, which was a gentle spin out, and by the end of the week was to be my favourite of all the rides It was a easy cycle, making it possible to enjoy the landscapes, and I immediately fell in love with it. I was surprised that the lake was so big, and that it looked like a little sea, placed in the middle of Hungary.

The highlight of the ride were the stops to take photographs for the tourist agency, and where from the high point on the land of Tihany (village), we could see a spectacular view of the lake. We stopped for the local lavender ice creams, which were very tasty, or as Hungarians say ‘nagyon finom’.

The sun was high and my G4 clothing kept me comfortable in the intense heat, and I felt like it was a dreamlike place, where I could quietly take it all in and just relax. The colours of the G4 custom #helloHungary kit matched the colours of my bike and helmet – which if you know me is critical. It was for me a pleasure to ride in this special place with my new riding friends in the fantastic matching kits made by G4!

Once we had showered and eaten, Tamas had arranged a trip for us, sailing on a large boat into the lake. The evenings here in Hungary are warm, with clear skies, making it very magical. I also got to sail the boat, which really added to the experience of this very special first day, setting the scene for the tour.

Day 2 Larisa

Having enjoyed the superb Hungarian hospitality of day one, on day two we were to move hotels, cycling 80km to our next stop and new hotel. The route started from Balatonfured and went to Balatonszarszo, which is on the shores of the lake. We were to follow the lake shore for most of the ride, allowing us to enjoy it’s beauty. We were able to use the bike lane, which was quite long, keeping us safe and away from traffic. Hungary is developing lots of cycling lanes in the area, and it has a vast network already. We also stopped on a high point for pictures, where we could see the magnificent view of the lake once more.

For this day I chose the ‘Simply’ kit from G4, with the sleeveless design to increase my tan lines. Everybody admired my kit and told me how stylish it looked.

While we were cycling to Siófok , we met by chance with the Romanian National Cycling Team, that we’re on the way to the prologue for the Tour de Hongrie. We watched the prologue and I had the opportunity to cheer on my national team, a few of who. I know well. Stopping for coffee and cakes was once again to set the scene of cake eating for the week! Thankfully the cycling was good, so we burnt off the calories! We arrived late at the hotel, at 9pm in Balatonszarszo, and went to the spa for some much needed recovery.

Day 3 Larisa

Today was to be a very tough day for my legs, with a distance of 90km of rolling terrain, with heat and hills and a headwind to add to the difficulty. I found it a bit hard to keep up with the boys, but by the end of the ride I was fine, and had managed to stay with our mini peloton. We took a 70km route along the shoreline to Zalaszabar, stopping for lunch in the countryside, with some elderly local acquaintances of Tamas. This brought back memories for me, because we ate food like that which my grandmother had cooked for me as a child, taking me back in time to a beautiful place full of nostalgia.

After lunch we were lying on the grass, admiring the landscape, and I could see fields full of vines and grapes for the local wines. My batteries shut down temporarily and I had a much needed power nap. Lying in the midday, curled up on the grass was wonderful. Temperatures in Hungary in the summer are in the mid 30s, so the cycling has an added issue to deal with, even if it’s a pleasant one – after all, we all like the sun.

My power nap was wonderful thankfully, and I was ready to enjoy the remainder of the days ride, along the beautiful roads.

Arriving at the hotel, it had been a difficult day riding, and so we visited the spa as a reward and a good recovery. As we were leaving the spa, Robert arrived from his journey from England, and the G4 team was now complete. We then closed the day celebrating the birthday of Tamas, with wine and fun. Tomorrow would be another day, and I would be joined on the ride by Robert, my fellow editor here at Pedalnorth and a great friend. The week was looking exciting and the sun was shining!

Larisa Chinces

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Hiking and Culture – pedalnorth

Our Favourite Coffee Stops – Lumos Cafe in Sibiu

Favourite Coffee Stops: Lumos, Sibiu

by Robert Thorpe

Lumos Coffee & Brunch, Sibiu

Great Teams Create Amazing Atmosphere

Always Part of the Plan

If Heinekin made Cafe’s…

Put Sibiu on Your Bucket List

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