Sibiu Cycling – pedalnorth https://pedalnorth.com The best independent cycling website Fri, 18 Apr 2025 16:29:04 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://pedalnorth.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/cropped-Pedal-North-600-pixel-32x32.jpg Sibiu Cycling – pedalnorth https://pedalnorth.com 32 32 Our Favourite Coffee Stops – Lumos Cafe in Sibiu https://pedalnorth.com/our-favourite-coffee-stops-lumos-cafe-in-sibiu/ Wed, 30 Aug 2023 21:06:11 +0000 https://pedalnorth.com/?p=33234
Lumos Coffee & BrunchGreat Cafe's

Favourite Coffee Stops: Lumos, Sibiu

by Robert Thorpe

I like coffee, I really do.I owe it so much over the years. At work in a previous career, it sustained me at times of great weariness, and when I’m writing it comforts me when I need a break from the mental torment of fitting words together on a page, so that they make sense. These days, for health reasons, I drink decaf and take oat milk. It still tastes sublime though, and despite knowing that I shouldn’t drink too much, it’s a comforter I can’t give up.

Along with great coffee, I like food. It’s not simply a case of putting necessary energy and building blocks into my aging body as I exercise. I, like anyone who admits it, loves the taste of great food, and I love combining a coffee – or a hot chocolate – with a tasty meal in a chilled out cafe. As cyclists too, it’s a rite of passage to be shown the best cafe stops. My old friend – God bless his soul – Ben Ralston, wouldn’t let me eat cake until we’d finished a hard ride; and, Fiona, another close friend and cycling partner, says ‘no climbing no cake!’ And so you see, I know that when I’ve earned a coffee stop, that I have to make the most of it. Due to this, and being a writer who simply likes to camp out and create words while watching the world go by, from the comfort of a great coffee shop, I’ve compiled an almost encylopediac list of the very best places – and, it’s time to share a few favourites.

Lumos Coffee & Brunch, Sibiu

Okay then, here’s a great place to start with, for many reasons; not least of which is that it sits in the perfect place in probably my favourite small city in the world – the simply magical city of Sibiu, in Transylvania, Romania. This medeival city, also known by it’s historical Germanic name of Hermannstadt, is a World Heritage Site, nestled beneath the sublime mountains of Romania, and with so much history that you’ll never exhaust of visiting.

Tucked quietly away, a few footsteps from Piata Mare (the main square), and close to the quieter and super cool Piata Huet, with it’s neat benches and small trees to shade under, Lumos Coffee is a easy to find and easy to fall in love with. The neo-classical architecture outside is painted in soft colours, and invites you into a large and modern interior, with well-spaced tables and comfortable seating. Outside of the cafe, there’s also ample seating, to take in the warm eastern European sun, and the simply breathtaking sunset that falls across the nearby mountains each day.

When I visit Sibiu, I have a favourite table in Lumos, allowing me to rest on soft leather seating, watch the world go by through the large windows and type away, as I empty my writers mind of a myriad of ideas and words, that always seem to make more sense when I’m here in my favourite city on earth.

Great Teams Create Amazing Atmosphere

In a previous life and career, I once had the surprisingly important title of being a Critical Incident Commander’ – I know, very grand indeed… not. I was basically, like colleagues, the guy whose phone rang when there was a real issue happening. What I learned from working in such a stress-filled environment is that good teams are led by good people, and that the result is a simply amazing atmosphere. Lumos has this is spades, and is a calm oasis of coolness – even on a hot day.

The cafe is led by a person that I’d like to acknowledge as a friend – Mihai. He’s one of the kindest, most warm-hearted and quietly caring people that you can ever meet. On my last trip to Sibiu, when a particular issue was troubling me, and I’d retreated to the comfort of my favourite place, he noticed my demeanour and shared time and coffee with me. Time is the most precious gift that we can give to anyone – and Mihai gives his time to everyone. He is the most generous of souls, and it’s reflected in his warm, polite and talented colleagues, such as Miriam, a who are seemingly so chilled and happy at work and always willing to share intelligent conversation with a confusing writer, who must at times seem a nuisance to others.

Always Part of the Plan

When  I visit Sibiu, and whatever I’m doing, and whoever I’m with, Lumos is always central to plans. I use it as a base when in town for the annual Sibiu Cycle Tour (UCI 4 day race), and have met global cycling friends here, like my close friend Cherie Pridham, sharing lunch as I introduced her to my favourite cafe in Europe. This summer, when Nadezhda and Larisa were doing a shoot for the DS Pro cycling brand, we used Lumos as a backdrop for some images and as our chosen  refreshment place during breaks. It always fits the bill, because Lumos, Mihai and the team care so much to make sure that it does so for everyone.

There’s a friendly buzz about the cafe, and the food is superb, cooked fresh all the time by their amazing chefs,and it reflects the global visitors that flock to Sibiu, with choices tomatch all tastes and needs, including Vegans and Celiacs. My own favourite meal here is their Roma Toast, with sourdough bread, sun dried tomatoes, gouda, and red onion chutney. I could live on this – finishing off of course with Cake 🙂 – a Lumos dessert is something to behold.

If Heinekin made Cafe’s…

I’ve visited some truly appalling cafes in my time. Ordering  coffee on a few occasions, I’ve genuinely felt like being poisoned, and I’ve had to make an excuse to leave rapidly. I once visited a then newly opened cycling cafe I dare not name, and ordered cappuccino which tasted so bad that if served in Italy, they’d be arrested and locked up!  I travel to Italy as often as finances, family life and time allow, and I love coffee… and food. I must be of Italian heritage from Roman times. After all, their empire did stretch to Hadrians Wall, and maybe I’m the descedant of a Roman legionaire who wooed a northern lady!

Back to coffee and great coffee stops then…Of course I’m not Roman – I’m Romanian 😉 I wish!

There is nothing finer in any urban area, anywhere in the world, than having a special place to retreat to. I love leaving my hotel (usually the Art Hotel in Sibiu), walking around the corner and setting up my ipad for a morning of writing at Lumos, then relaxing over brunch. It’s the best place to meet friends, be they locals or travellers like me, here to make the most of one of the most magical cities in Europe or elsewhere – Sibiu. Yes, I love Sibiu with a deep and abiding love, and I love its people, its history and culture, its cycling – and I love Lumos Cafe.

If Heineken made a cafe – they’d model it on Lumos, with the best people, the best food and the best coffee, and the coolest vibe.

Put Sibiu on Your Bucket List

Forgive my blasphemy, but please Mihai – for the love of God, open a Lumos here in Harrogate too. Yorkshire needs you and I miss watching the world go by from your calm oasis, and I love replenishing my body and soul after a hard ride in the hills of Transylvania, and walking the cobbled streets, with the medeival rooftops looking down on me. If I could, I’d move to Sibiu and buy an apartment looking over the old town, and close by to Piata Huet. I love the people of Sibiu, some of whom I look upon as family. Sibiu is aplace that captures your heart, due to the place, the history and most importantly, the people.

As far of Coffee shops and cafes go, Lumos sets the bar very high indeed, as we start to share our own list of favourite cafes for cyclists with you. I don’t know if it can be matched… but my colleagues and I here at Pedalnorth, will keep exploring and try to find a few more cycling stops to recommend for you. While we do, why don’t you book your own trip to Sibiu, at any time of the year: for cycling, hiking, the international arts festival in summer, or the magical Christmas Fair. Bring your bike and ride the sublime mountains that stand sentinel over Sibiu, and then relax in this quite wonderful cafe and coffee shop!

Lumos Coffee & Brunch at Facebook

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]]> Cycling to Paltinis and the city of Sibiu https://pedalnorth.com/cycling-to-paltinis-and-the-city-of-sibiu/ Mon, 19 Jun 2023 20:28:08 +0000 https://pedalnorth.com/?p=32546

Get Ready to Ride

Heading to the Romanian Mountains

It’s a year now, since I was cycling upwards, in the hills close to the historic city of Sibiu, deep in Transylvania. I returned again in winter, visiting people I regard as family, and the wonderful Sibiu Christmas market. It’s a city that’s easy to fall in love with, filled with amazing architecture, a warm ambience and some of the most beautiful mountains in Europe. I can see why the city is a designated World Heritage Site, and why it was chosen as the European City of Culture in 2007. The city authorities continue to develop Sibiu too; and, each time I visit, there are positive changes to see.

In early July, along with Nadezhda, I’ll be writing about the 4-day UCI ‘Sibiu Cycling Tour’ and riding both the Transfagarasan & Paltinis Challenge events, on the 7th and 8th of July; hoping to complete each epic ascent before being mown up by the approaching pro riders. Best of all, we’ll be joined by Larisa and Cristian, both of whom are lucky enough to live in this magical place.

I seem to have spent the greater part of my lifetime travelling and exploring new places; and yet, at the top of all the places I’ve been to – whether as a hiker, a biker, a climber, or a history seeking cultural tourist – is always the wonderful city of Sibiu. I’ve even got a favourite hotel: the Art Hotel, in the centre, close to Piata Mare. I could easily lose myself in Sibu and never get bored, with the wealth of places to see, and being wrapped in the warmth of the local people.

Riding the Roads

Last year was the second edition of the Transfagarasan Challenge, and it attracted 500 amateur cyclists from around the world. This year, for the third edition, Martin, Dani and the team have added a new challenge to proceedings, with the Paltinis Challenge – taking place on the following day, the 8th July. Yes, as well as cycling up the best road in the world – the Transfagarasan, on the 7th – you can now follow this up, by cycling to the oldest resort in Romania, Paltinis. Whilst shorter than the Transfagarasan Challenge, at only 19 km, the climb to Paltinis is however steeper, and lined with sublime views of the Cindrel Mountains.

Larisa Chinces, our former writer from Sibiu, knows this winding ribbon of mountain tarmac, as a young Deer instinctively knows the forest tracks – having ridden it countless times, and driven it daily as a ski instructor at the winter resort for years now. This year, the road will be closed from all traffic, as we mere mortals challenge ourselves on the ascent, hoping that the toils of the Transfagarasan haven’t taken too much of a toll the day before. One thing is certain, though; the views will be sublime, and the cycling company will be beyond equal. Afterwards, we’ll share wine, conversation, smiles and the warmth of each other’s company, as we dine in the evening light, seated around the edges of Piata Mare, with the slitted medieval rooftop eyes, famed throughout Europe, looking down on us.

Is Sibiu the Best Cycling City in Europe

I truly believe that, when analysing what people such as Martin, Dani and Emanuel (from the city council) have achieved so far, along with looking at the potential that Sibiu has; there is a valid argument for putting Sibiu on the list as the next ‘big thing’ in cycle tourism. It has an international airport only a 15-minute cab ride from the centre, a wealth of accommodation choices, beautiful architecture and a wealth of history, including the truly epic Astra Museum. It has one of the world’s best arts festivals, with street concerts and theatre shows displaying artists from dance, music, literature and the visual arts, coming from all corners of the world. The city has a new network of km after km of safe cycle paths, and city bikes to hire; and, the main squares and streets are traffic free.

Oh, did I mention the best mountain biking you’re ever likely to find too. In fact, the Paltinis Challenge gives you a choice of ascent: road or mtb race. Yes, you’ll need to book your own trip to magical Sibiu soon, as this place is getting hot – and not just in the meteorological sense. My own Bike Box Alan is ready and waiting, and my Bianchi bike is primed to climb. I’ve booked breakfast with friends, at the Café Lumos near Piata Mare, and I’ll be catching up with UCI team friends too, as the pros ride the 4-day tour race. Yes, Sibiu holds a place in my heart, and this year, I’m especially looking forward to cycling to Paltinis and then baking cake for Adi, Irina and Larisa, and sharing wine and laughter with Cristian, Nadezhda, Georgiana, Alan and Wendy. Yes, for me, Sibiu is probably the best place in Europe for a cycle tourism vacation, but I guess I’m biased – I’ve already fallen in love with the city.

Take a Look at Romania Cycling

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]]> Transfagarasan Challenge and the Growth of Cycling in Romania https://pedalnorth.com/transfagarasan-challenge-and-the-growth-of-cycling-in-romania/ Fri, 27 Jan 2023 14:16:39 +0000 https://pedalnorth.com/?p=30711
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Transfagarasan Challenge

The Very Best of Cycle Tourism

There’s a certain arrogance that exists around cycling events in the U.K.. You only really notice it when you go somewhere unique such as Transylvania in Romania. We may not like to admit it, but it also exists in those Balearic events to a degree, and certainly in the Alps, when over-inflated U.K. egos head off to test out their very expensive gear and cycling club trained physiques, where they’ve ridden in ‘group A’ and won a race on Zwift, while their family have been thankful of their absence. Those too regular club riders, whose families are glad for their absence, and who spend more time on a bike than the top pros, and yet don’t yet seem to know what cycling really means, and still fail to really enjoy the true passion of riding a bike in beautiful places.

I love Transylvania simply because it’s the polar opposite of all of this. Everything is so well planned, well organised, relaxed, friendly and open. It doesn’t matter either if you turn up on a Bianchi or on a Decathlon bike – so long as it’s got 2 wheels and you’ve got the spirit of adventure. Everyone talks openly and friendly, and yes, whilst there’s obviously the “eyeing up” of the opposition, there’s friendly chats everywhere and a holiday atmosphere. Romania as a nation, is far removed from the current U.K. mentality I’m afraid to say. I was there again only recently, and I’d say that as a percentage, 90+ % of the population looked fit and healthy and were smiling and polite, whereas here in the U.K. these days, it’s like the greater proportion of our population is sponsored by fast food outlets, and the ‘loads a money‘ arrogance of the 1980s is now unfortunately embedded in our culture – and especially so in too many areas of U.K. cycling, where the new cycling fan in some areas, simply believes that having a bankers style income can buy them happiness and a form of localised fame on two wheels. There’s even talk of club riders doping  in sportive events, and too many once friendly cycling clubs are taken over these days by brigades of arrogant peloton pilots. No, I prefer cycling abroad with friends, and especially so in magical, friendly Romania, where the people wrap you in their warmth.

Avoiding the Arrogance of Cycling

You can flick through the webpages of Bikeradar and head off in 2023 to the Trafalgar Square traffic like crowds of Majorca, where our northern accents are immediately noticeable to the Rapha brigade of Home Counties wannabee Zwift heroes. I’ve forgotten how many times, when in London, people hear my accent and start speaking slowly in monosyllabic tones. I often look around to try and find their carer, but they’re seemingly allowed out alone,and yet don’t have soup stains down their clothing – quite surprising 😉 . Yes, we ride bikes up north, and not just to deliver Hovis bread and newspapers – and we’re quite reasonably educated and can use a flushing toilet!

No, instead you can fly, drive or even cycle to Transylvania (it’s called cycle touring) and ride amongst some of the most amazing and friendly people in the world, in an environment still largely unspoilt by the ultra capitalist approach of the U.K. and elsewhere. It’s a place where people talk to you, not look the other way and events are still called a “challenge”, because ultimately that’s all it’s ever supposed to be – an event to cause you to look inwardly at yourself and to challenge your spirit; not a struggle designed to kill you off and to test the ability of the paramedics to respond to you. I’m now 57 years of age – I don’t want to die gloriously; I want to keep on living and keep on exploring wild and beautiful places. Yes, my wife works in the heart centre at our local hospital, but I want her with me on these trips for company, not simply for her medical knowledge.

Beautiful People in a Beautiful Place

Whilst riding upwards on the epic Transfagarasan Highway during last year’s event, I had conversations with French cyclists, German, Italian, Swiss, numerous locals from clubs and just individuals, all who opened the conversations and gave a warm smile and words of encouragement. We smiled, laughed, pedaled and shared humour and each others company, happy to share the wheel. We pushed each other along the sublime and quite awe-inspiring, winding ribbon of rising tarmac, encouraging with little comments as we passed others – although most riders passed and encouraged me 😉 . And, once at the top I shared pasta and beer with a Romanian shepherd who gets up at 4am each day, and I learned that sheep bells sound different from cow bells!

Yes, it was a magical ride, in a magical place, with simply wonderful people. I also managed to catch up with my friend, Cheire Pridham from the Lotto world tour team, and a few days later we shared dinner and bottle of wine in Sibiu. It was a holiday in every sense, and despite cycling up one of the most dramatic roads in the world, I came back rested and relaxed – and with a new respect for life and a greater knowledge of sheep bells.

Is Sibiu the Future of Cycling Tourism

I’ll be heading back to Sibiu in July, riding in the beautiful Carpathian Mountains – and indeed visiting beforehand, to ride my mountian bike. I’m down to ride both the Transfagarasan Challenge on the 7th July, and the new Paltinis Challenge on the 8th July. I’ll need to train hard, as both Nadia and Larisa are riding with me and I don’t want to let them down. I need to enjoy it, but not be too embarassing! It’s exciting though, and my hotel is already booked. I’m staying at the superb Art Hotel, in the centre of medieval Sibiu. Even the manager, Anamaria, helps out with  the organising team of the Transfagarasan Challenge – they’ve got a brilliant team of volunteers, all working hard to promote their home and all it has to offer – and yes, it offers so much.

International Arts Festival

During July, the Sibiu International Theatre Festival takes over the city, and is one of the most important theatre and performing arts festivals in the world. It’s an epic event, and the third biggest, after the Festival d’Avignon and the Edinburgh International Festival. There’s ten days of activities, filling the squares and streets and theatres, with guests from over 70 countries, performing approximately 550 events, including nightly concerts in the main square for everyone to enjoy, as you dine outside, at the multitude of excellent restaurants.

A New Cycling Festival for All

It’s a festival that, seemingly by accident rather than design, the volunteers that organise the Transgarafasan & new Paltinis Challenge, have linked in a new festival of cycling, with the four day UCI ‘Sibiu Cycling Tour’ also taking place and attracting the worlds best teams. Yes, July in Sibiu is the place to be, and I’ll be there with Nadia and Larisa and Cristian, another Sibiu friend. I’ll wake early every day, walk to Cafe Lumos for coffee and a croissant, and I’ll cycle and challenge myself. I’ll chat and eat and laugh and smile with friends, and we’ll dance and jump and and listen to the music, as the arts festival illuminates the beautiful medieval city of Sibiu, and then I’ll sleep soundly in the super stylish and super comfortable Art Hotel nearby.

There’s something truly special about the people of Transylvania. In a crazy and chaotic world, they’re unique, welcoming, driven, passionate and simply very nice and yes, super talented, without even realising it themselves.

You go join the traffic on the mass participation roundabout elsewhere, and yes, it’ll be sunny, you’ll no doubt have fun and meet lots of people. However, one special ingredient will be missing -it won’t be Sibiu and the nearby Carpathian Mountains, and the wonderful people of Sibiu won’t be there. They’ll be celebrating life and art and culture, in Transfixing Transylvania 🙂

We really can recommend the Art Hotel at Sibiu. It’s a mere 3 minute walk from Piata Mare (Main Square) and tucked neatly away, overlooking the medieval ‘old town’. Click here to take a look for yourself 🙂

Art Hotel - Sibiu
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